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2 Sheets- 811601; 1.

W; STOKES & R. HUDSON. ELASTIG WOVEN FABRIC.

(Specimens.)

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' 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. (Spec1mens.)

W. STOKES & R. HUDSON. ELASTIG WOVEN FABRIC.

No. 495,762. Patented Apr. 18, 1893. Q

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WVILLIAM STOKES AND ROBERT HUDSON, OF STOOKBROOK MILLS, ENGLAND.

ELASTIC WOVEN FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 495,762, dated April18, 1893.

Application filed August 21, 1891. Serial No. 403,326. (Specimens)Patented in England January 21, 1885, N0. 877- To aZZ whom it mayconcern.-

Be it known that we, WILLIAM STOKES and ROBERT HUDSON, subjects of theQueen of Great Britain, and residents of Stockbrook Mills, Derby,England, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ElasticWoven Fabrics, (patented in England J anuary 21, 1885, N0. 877,) ofwhich the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention has for its objectimprovements in the manufacture ofelastic webs suitable for insertion as gores or gussets in clothing,boots and shoes, and other articles requiring elasticity.

Our invention has for its object the production of elastic web with aperfectly smooth diagonal cloth or satin face, enabling a large quantityof material to be thrown on the face thereby making it durable andsmooth. The face can be made in silk, schappe, mohair, cotton, wool, orsimilar fibers.

In manufacturing ourimproved elastic web we may use harness shafts,Worked by cams or tappets on a revolving barrel, or shaft, or we can usea Jacquard machine, or other suitable method of operating our shafts andshuttles, as will be understood.

In the accompanyingdrawings forming part of this specification, Figure1, is avertical sectional elevation of so much of a loom as is necessaryto illustrate the manufacture of our improved web. Fig. 2, is a.diagram, illustrating the diagonal character of the face as shown by theposition of the several binders. Fig. 3, is a longitudinal section,showing the position of the various binder or warp threads in thefabric, (the stuffing warp being omitted) at each pick or chute of theweft, and the arrangement of the wefts. Fig. 4:, is a diagrammatic planview of the threads representing the surface of the fabric.

In practicing our method of weaving the improved web by the use oftappets or cams on a revolving shaft or barrel to operate the harness,we use six harness shafts for the binder threads. The section in Fig. 1,is taken as the shuttles P P are going past the center of the front ofthe sley O, and passes through the center of the shuttles and bindershafts A B C D E F The view also shows the position of these variousbinder shafts and also that of the tappets A, B, C, D,

E, F, operating them when the tappet A is perpendicular. The position ofthe levers A, B, O, is also shown, but levers D, E, F, in this positionare not seen, as they are neces sarily behind lever O. p

K L are the edge wire shafts. G, l'l,I, the rubber warp shafts.

J is the stuffing shaft.

M is the rubber. N the warp. O the sley. P the top shuttle, P the bottomshuttle.

Q, is the fabric issuing from the loom. R cords for the weights.

As shown, tappets are used to operate the binder shafts and are set on aspindle 40 as in Fig. 1.

The levers A, &c., for operating theharness or binder shafts A &c., arefitted with friction rollers as shown for the tappets A, &c., to rideon. When harness or binder shaft A is atthe bottom, the shuttle P goesover the warps carried by it one chute. This shaft A then rises to thecenter and the shuttleP goes over the warps carried by it twice. Theshaft A then rises to the top and stands still while the shuttle P goesunder the warps carried by it once, the shaft A then falls to the centerand the shuttle Pgoes over the warps carried by it twice and afterwardthe shaft A falls to the bottom and the shuttle P goes over the warpscarried by it once. The movement of shuttle P thus makes the face of thefabric and the corrresponding shuttle P the back. Shafts B 0 D E, F,repeat the above operation in consecutive order. By this action of thebinder shafts and shuttles such satin or smooth face and back areproduced, by the weft thrown up by the binders. The stuffing shaft J isplaced as a fixture in the center as shown, but the stuffer warp may beomitted.

In the drawings Fig. 1, the binder shaft A is shown at the top, theshuttle P is going past the center of the sley 0. One edge-wire shaft Lis then at the center and the other K down. Harnessor binder shaft B isdown while shafts C D E F are at the center as is also shaft 1, andnecessarily the fixed stuffing shaft J. The shafts G H are down. Thenext movement of the loom will at once be apparent to any practicalweaver in reference to the foregoing description of the method ofweaving the web with our smooth face and back.

In Fig. 2 the diagonal character of the face is shown by the position ofthe binders lettered A B O D F. and F G, H, and I, being the rubbershafts. In the longitudinal section Fig. 3, the binder or warp threadsare indicated by the letters A B C D E F the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,denote the six picks, the position of the various warp threads at eachpick being clearly shown.

We have not shown the application of J acquard or other equivalentmechanism to the tappets shown as such machinery, as that now in use canbe adapted for the purposes of our invention by any intelligent weaver.

By reference to Figs. 3 and 4, and especially in the latter figure,where the small semi-circles 20 represent the points at which the warpthreads pass over and outside of the back weft threads, it will benoticed that the pair of threads A B as they lie in the fabric areoppositely arranged,that is to say, the thread A passes out over theface weft while the thread B passes out over the back weft threaddirectly opposite, they then pass into the middle between two weftthreads on the face and back respectively, and then the thread 13 passesout over a face weft while at the same point the thread A passes outover the opposite back weft after which both threads pass into themiddle again and then pass as before. The next pair of threads 0 D lyingrespectively to the right and adjacent to the threads A B pass in thesame manner but while the first pair mentioned, A 13 pass out over thefirst weft thread, Figs. 3 and 4, on the face and back respectively, thesecond pair 0 D pass out over the next weft threads on the face andback, numbered 2. The third pair of warp threads, E F pass in the samemanner, but are bound by the third Weft threads.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim is A fabricconsisting of central rubbers, a series of face wefts, and a series ofback wefts, a series of six warp threads arranged in pairsA B 0 D and EF, the thread A of the first pair passing out over the face weft 1 andthe thread 13 passing out over the opposite back weft 1 both threadsthen passing in the middle between two face weft threads 2 and 3 and twoback wefts 2 and '3, the thread A then passing out over a back weft 4:while the companion thread 13 passes out over a face weft 4; the secondpair of warp threads 0 D passing in the same manner with relation to thenext weft threads 2, and the third pair of warp threads E F also passingin a similar manner with relation to the third weft threads 3, each weftthread being floated over the rubbers and all the threads of the severalpairs excepting the one'which binds it, substantially as described. Inwitness whereof we have hereunto set our hands in presence of twowitnesses.

WILLIAM STOKES. ROBERT HUDSON. Witnesses:

THOS. HEATH, 103 Peel Street, Derby, Soliciiors Cleric.

GEORGE E. BARWICK, 214 Norma'nton Road, Derby,SOZicit0rs Clerk.

